FLOAT

FLOAT 100 · Handbags · No. 97

Chanel Gabrielle Hobo

Karl Lagerfeld drew it from virtual reality goggles and the binocular cases men once slung over their shoulders at the racetrack, named it for Coco Chanel herself, and launched it with four film stars as Chanel's first new handbag line in six years.

Year
current
Maker
Chanel
By price in handbags
64 of 100
Market asking price, not a sale · Oct 3, 2026$2,695This is not a sale. It is an asking price, and no transaction is recorded at this figure.

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Maker
Chanel, Paris; designed by Karl Lagerfeld
Debut
Spring/Summer 2017 collection; in stores by spring 2017
Named for
Gabrielle Bonheur "Coco" Chanel, the house's founder
This entry
Gabrielle Hobo in the medium (original) size, black aged calfskin
Medium dimensions
7.8 in W x 10.5 in H x 3.1 in D, per a 2020 buying guide
Construction
Ultra-supple quilted body fitted on a rigid thermoformed base
Strap
Double chain interlaced with leather, in gold-tone and silver-tone metal
Launch retail (medium)
$3,600 in April 2017
Retail by March 2020
$4,100 in aged calfskin
Status
Discontinued in early 2023, per one resale guide; now traded pre-owned

A new bag for the year of Gabrielle

Chanel rarely puts a whole season behind one new handbag, but in 2017 it did. The Gabrielle was announced in April 2017 as the house's first new handbag model in six years, and it arrived as a family rather than a single bag: a hobo in three sizes, a backpack, a large shopping tote and a small purse. A 2020 buying guide described the launch fanfare as "impossible to ignore" and said the bag was created in part to reach a younger customer.

The name was the point. Gabrielle was Coco Chanel's given name, and Chanel built a whole year around it. A resale guide describes how the house called 2017 the year of Gabrielle, pairing the bags with a new perfume and a four-part film series about its founder.

The shape came from an unexpected place. Lagerfeld is said to have looked at virtual reality glasses, and at the binocular cases men once wore over their shoulders at the racecourse. The result is boxy and slightly futuristic, with a soft quilted body sitting on a hard, structured base, closer in spirit to a piece of equipment than to the house's ladylike flap bags.

Lagerfeld's late statement, and four faces

Karl Lagerfeld, born in Hamburg in 1933, had run Chanel since 1983 and is credited with reviving what had been called a near-dead brand after Coco Chanel's death in 1971. The Gabrielle came late in his tenure: one guide calls it his penultimate bag design for the house. He died in February 2019, and Virginie Viard was appointed creative director that month.

The bags first appeared in the Spring/Summer 2017 show of October 4, 2016, staged at the Grand Palais in Paris as "Data Center Chanel", with loose wires, flashing lights and models in helmets that looked like VR headsets. A bag inspired by virtual reality fit the set.

Chanel launched the line with four short films directed by the Australian filmmaker Daniel Askill. Kristen Stewart starred in the first, dancing through a dim, abandoned warehouse before finding the bag; Cara Delevingne, Caroline de Maigret and Pharrell Williams starred in the others. Casting Pharrell signaled what one guide calls Chanel's first gender-neutral bag.

How it is built and how to read one

Chanel described the construction at launch: a quilted, ultra-supple main body fitted on a rigid thermoformed base, so that the bag stands on its own while the top stays soft. The classic version pairs quilted aged calfskin with a smooth calfskin base; the lining is a garnet-red cloth. The base has no protective feet, a detail owners have noted because the smooth leather bottom can scuff.

The strap is the signature. An adjustable double chain, interlaced with leather and mixing gold-tone and silver-tone metal, lets the bag be worn on one shoulder, across the body, or both ways at once with the chains running diagonally. Later versions added ruthenium and black metal finishes. The zipper pulls carry the interlocking CC.

Sizes changed over the years. A 2020 guide lists the small hobo at 5.9 x 7.8 x 3.1 inches, the hobo (the medium of this entry) at 7.8 x 10.5 x 3.1 inches, and the large at 8.2 x 10.9 x 3.9 inches. Chanel also made the bag in python, tweed, denim, rattan, metallic crumpled calfskin, suede and sequins, and in bicolors such as black and white, navy and black, and beige and black. The black aged calfskin medium is the most classic of them.

Production continued for several years: a black medium offered pre-owned in October 2026 was described as made in 2022, with an estimated retail of $5,300. One resale guide dates the bag's discontinuation to early 2023.

From the boutique to the resale market

At launch in the United States the small hobo cost $3,200, the original (medium) $3,600 and the large $4,000, with the shopping tote at $4,100. By the time of an October 31, 2019 price increase and a March 2020 guide, the medium hobo in aged calfskin listed at $4,100, the large at $4,500, and the medium with a novelty strap at $4,800.

Reception was mixed at first. Longtime Chanel fans wondered whether the bag would last, but it picked up steam among celebrities and everyday buyers; Katie Holmes, Nicki Minaj, Meghan Markle, Hilary Duff and Lily Collins were all photographed with versions. The drawstring and large shopping versions were dropped before 2020, while the hobo sizes and the backpack stayed.

Since Chanel stopped making it, the Gabrielle trades as a pre-owned bag. In early October 2026 a black aged calfskin medium in excellent condition, made in 2022, was offered by a U.S. reseller at $2,695, roughly half of that listing's stated estimated retail.

A modern pillar with a short run

The Gabrielle sits between eras: one of the last bag families Lagerfeld designed for Chanel, launched with the most concentrated marketing push the house had given a bag in years, and retired a few years after his death. Its unisex positioning and tech-inspired shape set it apart from the flap bags that define Chanel.

For collectors the medium black aged calfskin version is the reference example: the size Chanel called the original, in the leather and color the house showed first, with the mixed-metal double chain that made the bag recognizable across a room.

The numbers

Dimensions (medium)
7.8 in W x 10.5 in H x 3.1 in D (2020 guide); a reseller measures 11 x 9 x 4 in
Material
Quilted aged calfskin body, smooth calfskin base, garnet-red cloth lining
Base
Rigid thermoformed base; no protective feet
Hardware
Double chain interlaced with leather, mixed gold-tone and silver-tone metal; CC zipper pull
Other sizes
Small 5.9 x 7.8 x 3.1 in; large 8.2 x 10.9 x 3.9 in
Production years
2017 to about 2023
Production quantity
Not published

Timeline

  1. Gabrielle Bonheur Chanel, the bag's namesake, is born in Saumur, France.

  2. Karl Lagerfeld becomes creative director of Chanel.

  3. Chanel shows its Spring/Summer 2017 collection, "Data Center Chanel", at the Grand Palais in Paris.

  4. The Gabrielle reaches Chanel boutiques.

  5. Chanel announces the Gabrielle line, its first new handbag model in six years; the medium hobo retails at $3,600 in the U.S.

  6. Daniel Askill's campaign films with Kristen Stewart, Cara Delevingne, Caroline de Maigret and Pharrell Williams are released.

  7. Karl Lagerfeld dies; Virginie Viard is appointed creative director that month.

  8. A Chanel price increase takes effect; the medium hobo later lists at $4,100.

  9. Three years on, the line is trimmed to small, medium and large hobos and a backpack.

  10. Black aged calfskin mediums are still being made.

  11. The Gabrielle is discontinued, according to a resale guide.

  12. A 2022 black medium is offered pre-owned in the U.S. at $2,695.

The world in 2016

  • Robot models and server racks fill the Grand Palais for Chanel's tech-themed show.

  • Chanel releases short films by Daniel Askill starring Kristen Stewart, Cara Delevingne, Caroline de Maigret and Pharrell Williams.

  • Chanel pairs the bag launch with a new Gabrielle perfume and a film series about its founder.

  • Lagerfeld's death ends a 36-year tenure at Chanel.

  • The Met Gala and Costume Institute show "Karl Lagerfeld: A Line of Beauty" honor the designer.

  • Virginie Viard leaves Chanel; Matthieu Blazy is named artistic director in December 2024.

Price record

DatePriceKind
Apr 2017$3,600Asking price, not a saleU.S. boutique retail at launch for the original (medium) Gabrielle Hobo.
Mar 2020$4,100Asking price, not a saleU.S. boutique retail for the medium Gabrielle Hobo in aged calfskin after the October 31, 2019 increase.
Oct 3, 2026$2,695Asking price, not a salePre-owned black aged calfskin medium, made 2022, excellent condition, offered by a U.S. reseller; listing states estimated retail $5,300.

This is an asking price, not a sale. It is what a seller wanted on the date shown. Asking prices often sit above what buyers pay, but an ask is not a ceiling: a sale can land on either side of it. It is not a value.

By reference price, Chanel Gabrielle Hobo is number 64 of 100 in the handbags entries of the FLOAT 100. 19 of those 100 rest on a realized sale; the rest carry an asking price or a guide value, and each page says which. Rank within the FLOAT 100 itself (97 here) is editorial: how much an object defines its field, not price alone.

Did you know

  • The Gabrielle was Chanel's first new handbag model in six years when it launched in 2017.
  • Its shape was inspired by virtual reality glasses and by the binocular cases men wore at the racecourse.
  • The double chain can be worn over one shoulder, across the body, or both at once.
  • The bag first appeared at a Chanel show staged as a data center, with robots and cable-filled trolleys.
  • Pharrell Williams was one of the four faces of the launch, and the bag is often called Chanel's first gender-neutral bag.
  • The medium hobo rose from $3,600 at launch to $4,100 by early 2020.
How this page is made
The figure
One reference price, shown with its own kind. FLOAT does not average it with anything or adjust it for time.
Realized or not
A realized price is a completed sale. An asking price, an estimate and a price-guide value are not sales, and are labeled as such wherever they appear.
The story
Researched from published records and checked fact by fact. Updated Oct 3, 2026.
Archive
Oct 5, 2026