Hermes Collier de Chien Bracelet (18k rose gold + diamonds)

A collar first

Hermès was founded in Paris in 1837 by Thierry Hermès as a maker of saddlery and harness, and by the 1920s it had carried that leather craft into handbags, travel goods and, for the chic Parisian of the day, accessories for dogs. One account says it was fashionable then for Parisian women to move about the city with whole packs of large dogs, and Hermès made the collars and leashes.

Most accounts start the design in 1923, when Hermès was commissioned to make a collar for a client's bulldog. Another account says the motif first appeared in 1927, as a belt commissioned by a client devoted to greyhounds. Either way, the design had the two elements that still define the line: a central O ring, meant for the leash, and pyramid-shaped metal studs, known as Médor studs.

The custom collar caused a stir, and other dog owners asked for their own. Then a couturière saw something else in it.

The couturière, the belt and the cuff

Marie Gerber, the eldest of the four sisters behind the Paris couture house Callot Soeurs, ran the business under her own name from 1920. In 1927 she was looking for a belt to finish her designs, and she asked Hermès to lengthen a studded dog collar into one. The Collier de Chien belt was released that year. Gerber died the same year, according to a history of her house.

From the belt the motif moved to the wrist. Here the sources disagree on dates: two say the Collier de Chien cuff was first released in 1940, one says the bracelet came in the 1940s, a 2013 newspaper report says the line of Collier de Chien jewelry launched in 1949, and a perfume-bottle historian says Hermès made its first belt in the Collier de Chien style, called Créneau, in 1949. The classic cuff, in leather or exotic skins with metal studs, became one of the house's best-known pieces.

The gold jewelry came much later. A 2013 report said gold bracelets had been added to the line three years earlier, and that in 2013 some pieces were set with diamonds for the first time. The house's fine jewelry in that era was shaped by Pierre Hardy, who had joined Hermès in 1990 to design footwear and began designing silver jewelry for the house in 2001, reworking its signatures, including the dog collar, before launching its first high jewelry collection in 2010.

Paris in the 1920s

The collar and the belt belong to a boom decade for Hermès. Émile-Maurice Hermès, grandson of the founder, became sole owner in 1919 and pushed the house into travel goods, sport, jewelry and fashion. The first Hermès leather handbags appeared in 1922, and in 1924 the house set up a presence in the United States.

1927, the year of the belt, was the year Charles Lindbergh flew alone from New York to Paris, Fritz Lang released Metropolis, and The Jazz Singer opened in New York. Paris was the capital of fashion, and couture houses like Callot Soeurs were among its leaders.

The gold and diamond version

This entry is the small model of the Collier de Chien bracelet in 18k rose gold, about 6 millimeters wide, with 48 round diamonds totaling 0.24 carat set into the studs. Unlike the wide classic cuff, it is a slim, rigid bangle that keeps the two signatures of the original collar: the row of pyramid studs and the ring at the center.

One pre-owned example offered in New York in 2026, signed Hermès and made for a small wrist of 6.25 inches, weighed 24.1 grams of gold. A new example in standard size carried the reference H115406B 00ST and came with its orange box, dust bag and ribbon. Hermès makes the bracelet in several wrist sizes, so references vary by size.

One reseller compares it to the best-known gold bangle from another Paris house. Over the decades the Collier de Chien has been made in calfskin and exotic leathers, palladium, Permabrass and silver, with the gold and diamond versions at the top of the range.

On the secondary market

Because the bracelet is a current Hermès model, it is not a single object with a provenance but a type, and its market is a resale market. In early October 2026, a New York dealer asked $6,700 for a pre-owned small model in excellent condition with 0.24 carat of diamonds, and a U.S. reseller asked $8,085 for a new, unworn example in standard size, which it described as 40 percent off.

Hermès also makes the Collier de Chien in silver, in leather with metal studs, and in more heavily diamond-set gold versions. Prices for those versions are not prices for this bracelet.

The numbers

Carat weight

0.24 ct total, 48 round diamonds

Metal

18k rose gold; 24.1 grams on one small-wrist example

Width

About 6 mm

Maker

Hermès, made in France

Reference

H115406B 00ST (standard size)

Production

Current model, made in several wrist sizes; no production figures published

Timeline

1. 1837

   Thierry Hermès founds a harness and saddlery business in Paris.

2. 1919

   Émile-Maurice Hermès becomes sole owner and expands into accessories, jewelry and fashion.

3. 1920

   Marie Gerber takes over the couture house Callot Soeurs under her own name.

4. 1923

   Hermès makes a studded dog collar with a central ring for a client; other owners ask for copies.

5. 1927

   At Marie Gerber's request, Hermès turns the collar into a belt: the Collier de Chien belt.

6. 1940

   The Collier de Chien cuff is first released, according to two accounts.

7. 1949

   Other accounts date the Collier de Chien jewelry line, or the first Créneau belt, to this year.

8. 1990

   Pierre Hardy joins Hermès as a footwear designer.

9. 2001

   Hardy begins designing Hermès silver jewelry, reworking house motifs including the dog collar.

10. 2010

    Gold Collier de Chien bracelets are added to the line, and Hardy launches Hermès's first high jewelry collection.

11. 2013

    Some Collier de Chien pieces are set with diamonds for the first time.

12. Oct 2026

    Pre-owned and new rose gold small models with 0.24 carat of diamonds are offered for resale at $6,700 and $8,085.

The world in 1922

• 1922

  Hermès introduces its first leather handbags.

• 1924

  Hermès establishes a presence in the United States.

• Jan 10, 1927

  Fritz Lang's Metropolis is released in Germany.

• May 21, 1927

  Charles Lindbergh lands in Paris after the first solo nonstop transatlantic flight.

• Sep 7, 1927

  Philo Farnsworth achieves the first fully electronic television system.

• Oct 4, 1927

  Carving begins at Mount Rushmore.

• Oct 6, 1927

  The Jazz Singer premieres in New York.

Price record

This is an asking price, not a sale. It is what a seller wanted on the date shown. Asking prices often sit above what buyers pay, but an ask is not a ceiling: a sale can land on either side of it. It is not a value.

By reference price, Hermes Collier de Chien Bracelet (18k rose gold + diamonds) is number 81 of 100 in the jewelry entries of the FLOAT 100. 44 of those 100 rest on a realized sale; the rest carry an asking price or a guide value, and each page says which. Rank within the FLOAT 100 itself (72 here) is editorial: how much an object defines its field, not price alone.

Did you know

• The bracelet's name means "dog collar," and it began as one in 1923.
• The couturière who asked for the first belt version, Marie Gerber, died the same year it was released.
• The ring at the center of every version was originally where the leash attached.
• Diamonds did not appear on Collier de Chien pieces until 2013.
• The designer behind the modern gold line, Pierre Hardy, trained in fine arts and danced professionally before designing shoes.
• The studs are known as Médor studs.