Pomellato Iconica Ring (rose gold + diamonds)

A birthday present to itself

Pomellato turned 50 in 2017, and it marked the date with a new line called Iconica. The house presented it around a celebration it held on September 21, 2017, during Milan Fashion Week, and the jewels reached stores that November.

The idea was to look backward in order to look forward. Iconica took as its starting point the sleek gold-band ring that Pomellato first designed in the 1970s; one trade account described it as a re-edition of the first storied ring introduced by the founder, Pino Rabolini, and a tribute to the goldsmith tradition of Milan, the city the brand has always called home.

The first collection had 17 designs in rose and white gold: rings in several widths, link bracelets in three sizes and pendant necklaces. The rings came plain or set with diamonds cut in unexpected shapes, described at launch as drops, triangles and other graphic forms.

Rabolini's everyday jewels, Castaldo's codes

Pomellato was founded in Milan in 1967 by Pino Rabolini, who grew up in a family of goldsmiths. His idea was borrowed from fashion: prêt-à-porter jewelry, worn at any time of day and changed like clothes, chosen by women for themselves rather than saved for occasions. The house later became known for colored stones and for its chains, and since 2013 it has belonged to the luxury group Kering.

Iconica was conceived by Vincenzo Castaldo, the house's creative director. A Tuscan who studied art in Lucca and architecture in Florence, he spent about 15 years in fashion before joining Pomellato, where he trained under the longtime design chief Sergio Silvestris. Sources differ on when he took the top design job: one account dates it to 2004, a 2025 profile to 2015.

Castaldo has described Iconica as one of the achievements he is proudest of, the collection meant to honor Milanese goldsmithing. "I think Iconica fully represents Pomellato, with its sensual yet irregular gold chains, and distinctive rings," he told an interviewer. Sabina Belli, the chief executive, compared the pieces to a white shirt: things to mix and match that always add an elegant touch.

2017

Iconica arrived in a turbulent year. In March the United Kingdom triggered Article 50 to begin leaving the European Union, and in May Emmanuel Macron won the French presidency. That summer and fall Hurricanes Harvey, Irma and Maria made the Atlantic season the costliest on record.

Within weeks of the Milan launch, a gunman killed 60 people in Las Vegas on October 1, and on October 27 Catalonia's parliament declared independence from Spain. In November the army in Zimbabwe placed Robert Mugabe under house arrest, ending 37 years of rule.

The rose-gold ring with 38 diamonds

This entry is the Iconica Ring, reference PAB7120, in 18k rose gold and 18k rhodium-plated white gold, set with 38 white diamonds of about 1.1 carats in total. Pomellato describes it as daring, lightweight and stackable, and as part of an anniversary collection meant to be mixed and matched.

The band's thick, rounded, slightly irregular profile is the signature of the line, and the diamonds follow the house's irregular setting, stones of different sizes and shapes arranged in a pattern rather than in a neat row. The white diamonds sit in rhodium-plated white gold, which keeps the setting pale against the rose-gold body.

Other Iconica rings use the same form in different ways: plain gold slim bands, rings in which a few shaped diamonds are inlaid in the gold, and cocktail rings with colored sapphires, rubies and amethysts set flush into recessed, gem-shaped cavities, a technique Pomellato calls flush mounting.

From 17 pieces to a pillar

Iconica has kept growing. In 2022 the house added slimmer rings made of two coils of rose or white gold joined by a link inspired by the traditional Milanese schiava bangle, along with bangles and earrings, almost all with hand-set white or brown diamond pavé.

In 2025 a yellow-gold chapter added a lariat necklace and Iconica Links, and the house released a video series, What Makes an Icon Iconic?, with its ambassadors Jane Fonda, Philippine Leroy-Beaulieu and Benedetta Porcaroli. Fonda called the jewelry "bold, simple and elegant."

The line has also moved into high jewelry. One Iconica choker is set with more than 1,700 hand-set white diamonds and took more than 200 hours to make, according to Pomellato.

As a current model, the Iconica Ring with 38 diamonds is sold new by Pomellato; in October 2026 its U.S. price was $6,850. At the 2017 launch, the house said diamond-set Iconica rings would retail for up to $6,550, with plain rings from $2,360.

The numbers

Carat weight

About 1.1 ct total, 38 white diamonds (maker's figure, approximate)

Metal

18k rose gold and 18k rhodium-plated white gold

Setting

Shaped diamonds in Pomellato's irregular setting

Reference

PAB7120

Collection

Iconica, launched 2017 with 17 designs

Origin

Designed and handcrafted in-house in Milan, Italy

Production

Current model; no production figures published

Timeline

1. 1967

   Pino Rabolini founds Pomellato in Milan.

2. 2001

   Pomellato introduces the Nudo ring.

3. 2013

   Pomellato becomes part of Kering.

4. Sep 21, 2017

   Pomellato marks its 50th anniversary with an event during Milan Fashion Week, launching the Iconica collection.

5. Nov 2017

   The 17-piece Iconica collection, in rose and white gold, arrives in stores.

6. Apr 2022

   Slimmer Iconica rings with a schiava-inspired link, plus bangles and earrings, join the line.

7. Sep 2025

   Iconica expands into yellow gold with a lariat necklace and Iconica Links, with a video series featuring Jane Fonda.

8. Oct 2026

   The Iconica Ring with 38 diamonds retails for $6,850 in the U.S.

The world in 2017

• Mar 29, 2017

  The United Kingdom triggers Article 50, starting Brexit negotiations.

• May 7, 2017

  Emmanuel Macron wins the French presidential election.

• Aug 25, 2017

  Hurricane Harvey strikes Texas, bringing record floods to Houston.

• Sep 20, 2017

  Hurricane Maria makes landfall in Puerto Rico.

• Oct 1, 2017

  A gunman kills 60 people at a music festival in Las Vegas.

• Oct 27, 2017

  Catalonia's parliament declares independence from Spain.

• Nov 2017

  Zimbabwe's army places Robert Mugabe under house arrest; he resigns six days later.

Price record

This is an asking price, not a sale. It is what a seller wanted on the date shown. Asking prices often sit above what buyers pay, but an ask is not a ceiling: a sale can land on either side of it. It is not a value.

By reference price, Pomellato Iconica Ring (rose gold + diamonds) is number 80 of 100 in the jewelry entries of the FLOAT 100. 44 of those 100 rest on a realized sale; the rest carry an asking price or a guide value, and each page says which. Rank within the FLOAT 100 itself (77 here) is editorial: how much an object defines its field, not price alone.

Did you know

• Iconica was a 50th-birthday collection: Pomellato was founded in 1967 and launched the line in 2017.
• Its starting point was a plain gold band ring Pomellato first made in the 1970s.
• The original Iconica link bracelets had an invisible clasp, so several could be joined into a necklace of any length.
• Pomellato's chief executive compared Iconica rings to a white shirt.
• One high-jewelry Iconica choker carries more than 1,700 hand-set diamonds and took more than 200 hours to make.
• Jane Fonda is one of the faces of the collection.